There was a time when most Carls were born-and-bred Minnesotans, but that era is long past. Many of us have a sizable bit of traveling ahead of us when term wraps up, and in today’s world, that tends to involve a plane or a car. But for those who hail from the broader Midwest, where driving can be a multi-day slog but flying can induce a little guilt, there is a third option: the train. Last year, this mode was made even more practical with the introduction of a new daily train, the Borealis, on a key Amtrak route between St. Paul, Milwaukee and Chicago. As a three-time traveler, I want to share my advice for those who might want to give it a try.
Just one year ago, I wouldn’t be writing this article. Before the Borealis was introduced in May 2024, the Twin Cities were served by just one Amtrak train: the Empire Builder, providing long-distance service between Chicago and Portland/Seattle. While fun for sightseeing, the Empire Builder is a hassle for those of us who want to get from point A to B, as I learned when I took it home last spring. The eastbound Empire Builder departs at the crack of dawn, meaning I had to negotiate a stay in the Cities the night before. It is also almost always behind schedule, as it has to travel thousands of miles, dodging freight trains on clogged rail lines, before it even gets to St. Paul. It’s safe to assume that the Empire Builder will generally be at least an hour late to St. Paul, if not more.
The Borealis, thankfully, travels entirely under daylight hours, and since it originates from St. Paul, you can plan around a consistent departure time. The duration of the full trip to Chicago Union Station is scheduled for seven-and-a-half hours, leaving at 11:50 a.m. and arriving at 7:14 p.m. I ride all the way to Chicago, [JUMP] and while the arrival time is usually closer to 8 p.m., this is a small price to pay considering what you get in exchange: no TSA, all the leg room you could possibly desire and a memorable experience. Tickets also tend to be cheaper in comparison to flying the same route; my trip home this spring cost just $68.
I highly recommend the Borealis for any Carl who lives on or near the route. In addition to the major cities of Milwaukee and Chicago, stops include Red Wing and Winona, MN, La Crosse and Wisconsin Dells, WI and Glenview, IL. Furthermore, since Chicago Union Station is a major Amtrak hub, you can continue your journey from there if necessary. Regional trains extend into Illinois, Indiana and Michigan, and long-distance routes serve almost every corner of the nation. I live in western Indiana, about three hours south of Chicago, so I take the Illini/Saluki down to Effingham, IL, which gets me within an hour’s drive of home.
Both the Borealis and the Empire Builder depart from the historic Union Depot in downtown St. Paul (there’s no station in Minneapolis). It’s a real treat to experience this majestic century-old terminal which far surpasses the Minneapolis-Saint Paul International (MSP) Airport in architectural grandeur. To get to Union Depot from Carleton, I recommend first taking a morning Northfield Lines bus to the MSP airport, since there are plenty of public transportation options available there. Last fall, I used the Metro Transit light rail system, heading to downtown Minneapolis on the Blue Line and then transferring to the Green Line for St. Paul. It takes a good hour and is not very direct, but it’s fun if you have some time to kill and want to see the Cities up close. Alternatively, you could take City Bus 54 directly from the airport, or grab a rideshare vehicle. Arriving at the station 45 minutes before departure is more than enough cushion.
While on the train, enjoy yourself! Pop in a podcast if you must, but don’t miss out on the experiences unique to train travel. You’ll stop at small towns, places you might otherwise never encounter, like Tomah, WI. The scenery is delightful as you wind along the Mississippi or hurtle through the hills and valleys of Wisconsin’s Driftless region. And people-watching is engaging, as there are always some interesting characters on board and plenty of college students traveling to or from schools along the way, like Winona State University or University of Wisconsin–La Crosse.
In the interest of full honesty, I should mention the surprisingly high rate of “mishaps” that have occurred on my journeys — of the three times I’ve taken Amtrak from St. Paul to Chicago, two of these trips involved some kind of equipment failure that spoke to the state of Amtrak’s aging trains. The first time, the entire train lost power near Milwaukee (a cable between the cars had come loose and short-circuited after sliding along the rail for hundreds of miles, slowly wearing down to the wire). We sat in the dark for half an hour while the issue was resolved. Then this spring, I was displeased to discover that the car I had chosen lacked heat on a day when temperatures dipped into the 30s. Japan’s Shinkansen, this is not. But lest this admission discourage any travelers from braving Amtrak, know that they will, at the very least, provide you with a complimentary bag of sweets for your inconvenience.
It goes without saying that the American passenger rail network, especially here in the Midwest, is far behind those in Europe or Asia. But what is quaint can also be endearing. Once you get past the inefficiencies, the Borealis can be rather fun. It’s certainly relaxed, a quality so precious after a bruising term, providing a chance to sit back, unwind and watch the scenery roll by. And you’re also reducing your carbon footprint, and supporting our passenger rail network at a time when it is under political threat. If Amtrak can get you home, I hope you will consider it.